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    • 专利摘要:
    The object of the present invention is a hair treatment which contains in a cosmetic vehicle, based on its weight, 0.05 to 5.0% by weight of zinc oxide; 0.05 to 3.00% by weight of at least one anti-dandruff active substance other than a); 0.10 to 10.00% by weight of at least one saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain, C10-C24 carboxylic acid; and 0.01 to 5.00% by weight of at least one amino acid.
    公开号:FR3076716A1
    申请号:FR1872713
    申请日:2018-12-11
    公开日:2019-07-19
    发明作者:Thomas Schröder；René Krohn
    申请人:Henkel AG and Co KGaA；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    Title of the invention: Hair treatments with anti-dandruff action [0001] The present invention relates to cosmetics and relates to hair treatments which contain, in a cosmetic vehicle, as an association of active substances of zinc oxide, an additional anti-dandruff active substance, a fatty acid as well as an amino acid.
    The present invention further relates to the cosmetic use of a combination of active substances for improving the effectiveness of the anti-dandruff action of hair treatments as well as a cosmetic process for combating, reducing, relieving and / or prevent dandruff.
    The fight against dandruff is an essential aspect of cosmetic hair treatment. Indeed, a slight scaling of the scalp or other hairy areas of the body is already considered a lack of hygiene and care. In addition, the formation of dandruff generally causes annoying itching which causes the subject to scratch, which can cause injury on the affected skin areas. Often, said skin wounds in turn form the ideal basis for infections and pathogens.
    The formation of dandruff can be promoted by various factors, such as a genetic predisposition, a tendency to produce excess sebum (seborrhea), hormonal fluctuations, stress, climatic conditions or poor maintenance of the hair. However, colonization of the scalp by yeasts of the genus Malassezia plays a crucial role in the formation of dandruff.
    This is why the fight against dandruff has always been to reduce / fight against bacterial colonization that Malassezia pursues on the scalp.
    A multitude of cosmetically acceptable anti-dandruff active substances, usually incorporated in shampoos or tonics for treating the scalp, is known from the state of the art. Piroctoneolamine, climbazole, zinc pyrithione as well as other zinc salts, special plant extracts, sulfur and / or selenium sulfide are among the most widely used anti-dandruff active substances, for example.
    Cosmetic hair treatments showing good efficacy in terms of their anti-dandruff action, which contain organic or inorganic zinc salts as well as, where appropriate, additional anti-dandruff active substances are known from patents DE 102011079539 and DE 102014225083.
    However, there is a need for hair treatment with even better efficacy of their anti-dandruff action, which acts from the first application and proves to be prolonged and lasting; and on the other hand, the stabilization of the water-insoluble anti-dandruff active substances and / or the solutions based on surfactants proves to be expensive contrary to what is desired.
    The present application aims to provide a stable hair treatment on storage which makes it possible to fight, reduce, relieve and / or prevent dandruff with speed, efficiency and durability.
    The products must also be able to be produced while limiting costs and energy consumption as much as possible, and have excellent care properties.
    Surprisingly, it has now been found that hair treatments which contain, as a combination of active substances of zinc oxide, an additional anti-dandruff active substance, a fatty acid as well as an amino acid allow perfectly solving the aforementioned problems. .
    Said hair treatments have a more effective anti-dandruff action compared to the usual anti-dandruff products, generally based on zinc pyrithione. They are both very well supported by the skin and leave the hair treated after treatment.
    The first object of the invention therefore consists of a hair treatment which contains in a cosmetic vehicle, relative to its weight,
    at. 0.05 to 5.0% by weight of zinc oxide;
    b. 0.05 to 3.00% by weight of at least one anti-dandruff active substance other than a);
    vs. 0.10 to 10.00% by weight of at least one saturated or unsaturated, C 0 -C 2 4 carboxylic acid, with a straight or branched chain; and
    d. 0.01 to 5.00% by weight of at least one amino acid.
    The hair treatments according to the invention contain the active substances a) to d) in a cosmetic vehicle. By this is meant that an aqueous or hydroalcoholic vehicle is preferred in the context of the invention.
    The cosmetic vehicle preferably contains at least 60% by weight, more preferably 65% by weight, even more preferably at least 70% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 75% by weight of water (relative to the weight of whole product).
    In addition, the cosmetic vehicle may contain 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 15% by weight and even more preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight of at least one alcohol.
    The following alcohols may for example be suitable: ethanol, propan-l-ol, propan2-ol, isopropanol, glycerin, diglycerin, triglycerin, butan-l-ol, butan-2-ol, pentan l-ol, pentan- 2-ol, propane-1,2-diol, butane- 1,2-diol, pentane-l, 2-diol, pentane-l, 5-diol, hexan-l-ol, hexan-2-ol, hexane- 1,2-diol, hexane-1,6-diol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, sorbitane, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of said alcohols.
    Water-soluble alcohols are particularly preferred.
    Ethanol, propane-1,2-diol, glycerin, benzyl alcohol and / or phenoxyethanol as well as mixtures of said alcohols are very particularly preferred.
    The hair treatments according to the invention contain as first compulsory component 0.05 to 5.0% by weight of zinc oxide (relative to the weight of the whole product).
    Zinc oxide is used in the hair treatments according to the invention (relative to the weight of the whole product) in a proportion of 0.10 to 4.00% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 3, 00% by weight and even more preferably from 0.50 to 2.00% by weight.
    In the compositions according to the invention, zinc oxide serves as a booster for the anti-dandruff action b). Zinc oxide is essentially insoluble and must be stabilized in an aqueous base and / or surfactants, so that the stability and / or the homogeneity of the entire composition are preserved. This problem appears especially in an environment where the pH is greater than 9. The addition of acids c) and d) makes it possible to remedy them within the framework of the present invention. It is therefore not necessary to add thickening agents, in particular polymer-based thickening agents.
    By “insoluble” is meant, within the meaning of this declaration, that less than 1 g of the respective compound (ZnO, anti-dandruff active substance b)) is soluble in 1 1 of water at a temperature of 20 ° C. . Preferably less than 100 mg, more preferably less than 50 mg and even more preferably less than 25 mg of the respective compound (ZnO, anti-dandruff active substance b)) are soluble in 1 1 of water at a temperature of 20 ° C.
    The hair treatments according to the invention contain as second compulsory component 0.05 to 3.0% by weight of an anti-dandruff active substance b) different from ZnO (relative to the weight of the whole product).
    In the hair treatments according to the invention, active dandruff active substances b) soluble and / or water-soluble are used as anti-dandruff active substances b) in a solution based on surfactants. These can preferably be chosen from the following substances: piroctone-olamine, climbazole, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, derivatives of undecylenic acid, extracts of poplar, extracts of poplar nettle, nut shell extracts, birch extract, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and / or arnica extracts.
    Piroctone-olamine and / or climbazole are more preferably used as active substance b) in the context of the present invention. Even more preferred is piroctone-olamine.
    It has been found that the ZnO reacted with acids c) and d) and associated with piroctone-olamine and / or climbazole make it possible in particular to formulate very effective and stable dandruff shampoos.
    Or the active substance (s) b) is (are) used (s) in the hair treatments according to the invention preferably in a proportion of 0.10 to 2.50% by weight, more preferably from 0.15 to 2.00% by weight and even more preferably from 0.20 to 1.50% by weight (relative to the total weight of the hair treatment). Preferably, a soluble or water-soluble anti-dandruff active substance b) is used, more preferably piroctone-olamine and / or climbazole and even more preferably piroctone-olamine, in the abovementioned proportions, in a solution based on surfactants.
    The hair treatments according to the invention contain as a third compulsory component 0.10 to 10.00% by weight of at least one carboxylic acid Ci 0 -C 2 4 saturated or unsaturated, with a linear or branched chain (by relative to the weight of the whole product).
    Saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, with a straight or branched chain with 12 to 22, more preferably 14 to 20 and even more preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms in the carbon chain, such as isostearic acid, are preferred. '' isopalmitic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecane acid, tetradecanoic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid , elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid as well as technical mixtures of these.
    Usually preferred fatty acid fractions which are available in coconut or palm oil, more preferably palmitic acid, stearic acid or mixtures of said acids.
    The hair treatments according to the invention contain (relative to their total weight), in a preferred embodiment, 0.50 to 8.00% by weight, more preferably 1.00 to 6.00% by weight and even more preferably 1.50 to 5.00% by weight of at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 24 carboxylic acid, more preferably palmitic acid and / or stearic acid.
    Finally, the hair treatments according to the invention contain as fourth essential component 0.01 to 5.00% by weight of at least one amino acid.
    By suitable amino acids is meant in principle, within the meaning of the present invention, all physiologically compatible amino acids and their salts.
    However, for technical reasons relating to the formulation, it is preferable that at least one non-essential amino acid is used as amino acid (s) d).
    Within the meaning of the present invention, alanine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glycine, proline, serine and / or tyrosine are preferred; glycine, proline and / or serine are particularly preferred and glycine is very particularly preferred.
    The acid or amino acids (s) is (are) used (s) in the hair treatments according to the invention preferably in a proportion of 0.02 to 4.00% by weight, more preferably 0, 05 to 3.00% by weight and even more preferably from 0.10 to 2.00% by weight (relative to the total weight of the hair treatment). In the above-mentioned proportions, alanine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glycine, proline, serine and / or tyrosine are used, and more preferably glycine.
    Hair treatments according to the invention can take the form of shampoo, conditioner, mask, styling product or hair tonic, etc.
    Hair treatments according to the invention which are produced as shampoo and / or hair tonic are preferred.
    The hair treatments according to the invention which take the form of a shampoo preferably contain, in addition to the active substances a) to d), at least one foaming surfactant. When choosing the surfactants and making the shampoo, care must be taken to ensure that cleaning the hair does not irritate or attack the scalp.
    This is why shampoos which have a slightly acidic pH and / or contain a limited amount of surfactants and / or comprise a mixture of particularly mild surfactants (for the skin) have proved to be particularly preferred.
    Shampoos are preferred which have a pH between 4.0 and 6.0, more preferably between 4.2 and 5.8, even more preferably between 4.3 and 5.6 and very particularly preferably between 4.5 and 5.5.
    A total content of surfactants of 20% by weight maximum, relative to the weight of the hair treatment according to the invention (shampoo), is preferred. More preferably, a total surfactant content of 18.00% by weight maximum, even more preferably 16.00% by weight maximum and very particularly preferably 15.00% by weight maximum.
    A mixture of at least one anionic surfactant e) and at least one amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant f) has been found to be a mixture of particularly mild surfactants for hair treatments according to the invention (shampoos).
    The hair treatments according to the invention take the form of shampoos, in a preferred embodiment, and contain at least one anionic surfactant e) additional and at least one surfactant f) amphoteric and / or zwitterionic.
    In addition, the shampoos can optionally contain a nonionic surfactant g) for stabilization.
    For example, there are among the types of suitable nonionic surfactants e) which can be used in the hair treatments according to the invention (shampoos):
    - carboxylic ether acids of the formula RO- (CH 2 -CH 2 O) X -CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, with straight or branched chain comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms etx = 0oulàl6;
    - acylsarcosides comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group;
    - acyltaurides comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group;
    - acylisethionates comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group;
    - monoesters and / or dialkyl esters of sulfosuccinic acid comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl and polyoxyethyl monoalkylated sulfosuccinic acid comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups;
    - alpha-olefin sulphonates comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms;
    - alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfate salts of the formula R- (OCH 2 -CH 2 ) n O-SO 3 X, in which R preferably represents a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain alkyl group, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, x represents the number 0 or 1 to 12 and X represents an alkaline, alkaline earth, ammonium or amino alcohol;
    - sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds;
    - esters of tartaric acid and tricarboxylic acid with alcohols which represents adducts of approximately 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 22 atoms of carbon; and or
    - alkyl and / or alkenyl etherphosphates of the formula [Chem.l]
    O
    R- (OCH 2 CH 2 ) - O — P - OR 2 OX in which R 1 preferably represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 represents hydrogen, a radical (CH2CH2 O) nR * or X, n represents numbers from 0 to 10 and X represents hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or the group -NR 3 R 4 R 5 R 6 , with R 3 to R 6 each representing independently of the another a C1 to C4 hydrocarbon radical.
    The preferred nonionic surfactants are the alkyl sulfates and / or the alkyl ether sulfate salts of the formula R- (OCH 2 -CH 2 ) n -O-SO 3 X, in which R preferably represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group , with a linear or branched chain, comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms, x represents the number 0 or 1 to 12 and X represents an alkaline, alkaline earth, ammonium or amino alcohol.
    The more preferred nonionic surfactants e) are the straight or branched chain alkyl ether sulfate salts of the above formulas which comprise an alkyl radical R comprising 8 to 18 and more particularly 10 to 16 carbon atoms, as well as 1 to 6 and more particularly 2 to 4 units of ethylene oxide.
    The sodium, magnesium and / or triethanolamine salts of myristilic, tridecyl and / or lauryl sulfate which have a degree of ethoxylation of 2 to 4 are very particularly preferred.
    The surfactants known under the name INCI Sodium Laureth Sulfate are even more preferred.
    The weight proportion of the nonionic surfactant e) relative to the total weight of the hair treatment according to the invention (shampoos) is preferably between 1.00 and 15.00% by weight.
    More preferred is a weight proportion of 2.00 to 14.00% by weight, even more preferably from 3.00 to 13.00% by weight and very particularly preferably from 5.00 to 12.50% in weight.
    For example, there are among the surfactants f) amphoteric and / or zwitterionic suitable that can be used in hair treatments according to the invention (shampoos) one or more compounds of the following formulas (I) to (VII) , in which the radical R represents respectively a saturated or mono-unsaturated / polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical, with a linear or branched chain, comprising 7 to 23 carbon atoms (formulas (I) and (II)) or an alkyl or alkenyl radical saturated or monounsaturated / polyunsaturated, with linear or branched chain, comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms (formulas (III) to (VII)):
    [Chem. 2]
    COO (VII) The preferred amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants of one of the above-mentioned formulas (I) to (VII) contain, as radical R, mainly a saturated or monounsaturated / polyunsaturated alkyl radical, with straight chain or branched comprising 8 to 20, more preferably 8 to 18 and even more preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms.
    The amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants from which the radical R of coconut fat is derived are particularly preferred.
    The amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants available commercially from several suppliers and known by their name INCI Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Sodium Cocoamphopropionate, Disodium Cocoamidyletropethanet Cocoamidyletropetaine or Cocoamidyletropetone, Lauramidopropylbetain are particularly preferred.
    Surfactants bearing the names INCI Cocamidopropylbetain, Lauramidopropylbetain, Cocoampho (di) acetate and / or Lauroapho (di) acetate are very particularly preferred.
    The weight proportion of at least one surfactant f) amphoteric and / or zwitterionic relative to the total weight of the hair treatment according to the invention (shampoos) is preferably between 1.00 and 10.00% by weight. More preferably a weight proportion of 1.25 to 8.00% by weight, even more preferably 1.50 to
    7.50% by weight, more particularly preferably from 1.75 to 6.00% by weight and very particularly preferably from 2.00 to 5.00% by weight.
    The preferred hair treatments according to the invention which take the form of a dandruff tonic for the hair preferably have a pH of between 4.0 and 8.5, more preferably between 5.0 and 8.0, even more preferably between 6.0 and 7.5 and very particularly preferably between 6.5 and 7.5.
    In order to stabilize and / or obtain optimal foaming properties and softness (in the case where the hair treatments according to the invention take the form of shampoos), the hair treatments according to the invention may contain, in a another preferred embodiment, at least one nonionic surfactant and / or a nonionic emulsifier.
    The weight proportion of the nonionic surfactant and / or of the nonionic emulsifier relative to the total weight of the hair treatment according to the invention is preferably from 0.01 to 3.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 2.50% by weight, even more preferably from 0.03 to 2.00% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.05 to 1.50% by weight.
    Among the nonionic surfactants / emulsifiers which are suitable according to the invention are preferably found:
    - Addition products of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or of 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide on linear fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, on fatty acids comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms and on alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
    - Additions of ethylene oxide and polyglycerol to fatty acid esters of methylglucoside, alkanolamides of fatty acids and glucamides of fatty acids.
    - Monoesters / diesters of C 8 -C 30 fatty acids of adducts of 1 to mol of ethylene oxide on glycerin.
    - Amine oxides.
    - Esters of sorbitol fatty acid and adducts of ethylene oxide on sorbitol fatty acid ester, for example polysorbate.
    - Fatty acid alkanolamides of the following general formula [Chem69]
    O
    he
    R- JJ -
    R 'in which R preferably represents a saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical, with a linear or branched chain, comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms and the [0071] [0072] [0073] [0074] [0075] [ Radical R 'represents hydrogen or the group - (CH 2 ) n OH, in which n represents the digits 2 or 3, provided that at least one of the radicals R' represents the radical - (CH 2 ) n OH above.
    - Fatty acid sugar esters and additives of ethylene oxide on fatty acid sucroester.
    - Addition products of ethylene oxide on alkanolamides of fatty acids and fatty amines
    - Alkyl (oligo) glucosides.
    - Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the product Montanov®68 commercially available.
    - Addition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide on castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.
    - Partial esters of polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
    - Sterols: by sterols is meant a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on the carbon atom 3 of the steroid structure and which are both isolated from animal tissues (zoosterol) and vegetable fats (phytosterol). Cholesterol and lanosterol are for example zoosterols. For example, ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol are suitable phytosterols. Sterols called fungal sterols are also isolated from fungi and yeasts.
    - Phospholipids: by phospholipids, is meant above all the glucosesphospholipids which can, for example, be obtained as lecithin or phosphatidylcholine from egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans).
    Suitable alkyl (oligo) glycosides can be chosen from compounds of the general formula of RO- [G] X , in which [G] is preferably derived from aldoses and / or ketoses comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably glucose.
    The index x represents the degree of oligomerization (DP), that is to say the distribution of monoglycosides and oligoglycosides. The index x preferably has a value between 1 and 10, more preferably between 1 and 3, the number then being able to be not a whole number, but a fractioned number which can be determined analytically.
    The particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides have a degree of oligomerization between 1.2 and 1.5.
    The radical R preferably represents at least one alkyl and / or alkenyl radical comprising 4 to 24 carbon atoms.
    Very particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides are the compounds known by their name INCI Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside.
    Suitable amine oxides can be chosen from at least one compound of the general formulas (I) or (II) [Chem. 4]
    O
    In which R represents respectively a saturated or mono-unsaturated / polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical, with a linear or branched chain, comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
    The surfactants of formula (I) or (II) mentioned above known by their name INCI Cocamine Oxide, Lauramine [0081] Oxide and / or Cocamidopropylaminoxid and available commercially from different suppliers [0082] are particularly preferred.
    Among the monoesters / diesters of C 8 -C 30 fatty acids of adducts of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide on glycerin, those bearing the names INCI PEG (1-10) Glyceryl Cocoate are preferred, more preferably PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate.
    It may also prove advantageous to combine the ethoxylated fatty acid esters with additional ethoxylated fatty acid esters. This type of mixture is commercially available, for example under the name "Antil 200®" (INCI name: PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) from the company Evonik.
    The particularly preferred nonionic surfactants which may be contained in compositions according to the invention are the alkanolamides of fatty acids, in particular the compounds known under the names INCI Cocamide MEA and / or Cocamide MIPA; alkyl (oligo) glucosides, in particular the compounds known under the names INCI Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and / or Coco Glucoside; monoesters / diesters of C 8 -C 30 fatty acids of adducts of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide on glycerin, in particular the compound known under the name INCI PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate; and / or the adducts of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or of 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide on linear fatty alcohols comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
    This can also prove to be advantageous for certain embodiments when the hair treatments according to the invention comprise hydrogenated castor oil. It has been found that a content of hydrogenated castor oil can help to further stabilize the anti-dandruff complex according to the invention.
    This is why the hair treatments according to the invention contain, in a preferred embodiment, relative to their total weight, preferably 0.01 to 2.00% by weight, more preferably 0.02 to 1.50 % by weight, even more preferably 0.03 to 1.00% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.50% by weight of hydrogenated castor oil (designation INCI: Hydrogenated Castor Oil).
    It is advantageous that the product according to the invention contains, in addition to the active substances a) to g) compulsory and optional above, other active substances h) which soothe the scalp and active substances i) which treat scalp. The condition of an already scaly, irritated, sensitive and / or injured scalp can in particular be improved when at least one active substance from group h) and / or i) is added to the hair treatment according to the invention.
    In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatments according to the invention therefore also contain, relative to their weight, 0.01 to 3.00% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 2.50% by weight , more preferably 0.03 to 2.00% by weight and even more preferably 0.05 to 1.50% by weight of at least one active substance h) which soothes the scalp and / or at least one active substance i ) which treats the scalp.
    The adapted active substances h) can be used in the hair treatments according to the invention, relative to their weight, preferably in a proportion of 0.01 to 2.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 1.50% by weight, even more preferably from 0.03 to 1.00% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.05 to 0.75% by weight, and be preferably chosen from allantoin, alpha-bisabolol, alpha-lipoic acid and / or glycyrrhetinic acid, more preferably between allantoin and / or alpha-bisabolol.
    The adapted active substances h) can be chosen from
    - cationic conditioning polymers;
    - protein hydrolysates;
    - vitamins;
    - fats, oils and / or waxes;
    - glycerin.
    The term “suitable cationic conditioning polymers” means, for example:
    - quaternized cellulosic polymers, especially Polyquatemium-10, commercially available under the names Celquat® and Polymer JR®;
    - hydrophobically modified cellulose derivatives, such as cationic polymers sold under the brand SoftCat®;
    - cationic alkylpolyglycosides;
    - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat® 50;
    - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products marketed under the Cosmedia®, Guar N-Hance® and Jaguar® brands;
    - polymeric salts of dimethyl diallyl ammonium and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular Polyquaternium-6 and Polyquaternium-7; the products commercially available under the names Merquat®100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammomumchlorid)) and Merquat®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) belong for example to this type of cationic polymers;
    - vinylpyrrolidone copolymers with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, as with diethyl sulfate of quaternized copolymers of dimethylaminoethyl vinylpirrolidone methacrylate; this type of compound is commercially available under the names Gafquat®734 and Gafquat®755;
    - copolymers of vinylimidazolium methochloride of vinylpyrrolidone, as they are offered under the name Luviquat®FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552;
    - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol;
    - as well as the polymers known under the names
    - Polyquaternium 2, Polyquatemium 17, Polyquaternium 18, Polyquaternium24, Polyquaternium 27, Polyquatemium-32, Polyquatemium-37, Polyquatemium 74 and Polyquaternium 89.
    Particularly preferred cationic polymers are quaternized cellulosic polymers, hydrophobically modified quaternized cellulosic polymers, cationic guar derivatives and / or cationic polymers based on acrylic acid (acrylic acid derivatives) which are more preferably chosen. among the polymers known under the names INCI Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquatemium-4, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquatemium-7, Polyquaternium-10, Polyquatemium-37, Polyquaternium-67 and / or Polyquatemium-72.
    Cationic polysaccharide polymers are particularly preferred; the above-mentioned quaternized cellulosic polymers are very particularly preferred.
    The weight proportion of the conditioner polymer (s) relative to the total weight of the hair treatment according to the invention is preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 1 , 50% by weight and even more preferably from 0.10 to 1.00% by weight.
    By protein hydrolyzate is meant mixtures of products which can be obtained by the degradation by acid, basic or enzymatic catalysis of proteins.
    Protein hydrolysates of plant, animal and / or marine origin can be used.
    Protein hydrolysates, such as elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk proteins, are animal protein hydrolysates which can also take the form of salts. This type of product is for example marketed under the brands Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gélatine Labriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).
    Protein hydrolysates of plant origin, such as soy, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates are preferred. This type of product is for example available under the brands Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex) and Crotein® (Croda).
    Cationized protein hydrolysates can also be used, the fundamental protein hydrolyzate can come from animals, such as collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, such as wheat, corn, rice, apples earth, soy or almonds, marine life forms, such as fish collagen or algae, or protein hydrolysates obtained through biotechnology. The protein hydrolysates on the basis of the cationic derivatives can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical hydrolysis, particularly alkaline or acid, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of two types of hydrolyses. Protein hydrolysis generally produces a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of between about 100 Da and several thousand daltons. The hydrolysates of cationic proteins whose fundamental protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 Da, preferably 250 to 5,000 Da, are preferred. In addition, by cationic protein hydrolysates is meant quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of protein hydrolysates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts, for example halides N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3 chloro-n-propyl) ammonium. In addition, cationic protein hydrolysates can also continue to be derived. The commercially available products known under their name INCI, listed below, are typical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Haïr Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Coco dimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silyl Aminyl Acids, Protein Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimoni um Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein , Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steard imonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quatemium-79 Hydrolyzed Quaternium, Quaternium Protein -79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.
    The weight proportion of the protein hydrolyzate (s) relative to the total weight of the hair treatment according to the invention is preferably from 0.01 to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 to 2% by weight and again more preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight.
    The term “suitable vitamins” preferably means the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors as well as their derivatives:
    Vitamin A: retinol (vitamin Ai) as well as 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A 2 ) belong to the group of substances qualified as vitamin A. B-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Vitamin A acid and its esters, Vitamin A aldehyde and Vitamin A alcohol as well as its esters, such as palmitate and acetate, are, for example, taken into account as components of Vitamin A .
    Vitamin B: found in particular in the vitamin B group or in the [0105] [0106] [0107] [0108] [0109] [ΟΠΟ] [YES] [0112] vitamin B complex:
    • Vitamin Bi (thiamine).
    • Vitamin B 2 (riboflavin).
    • Vitamin B 3 : the compounds of niacin and nicotinamide are frequently mentioned under this name.
    • Vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid and panthenol): panthenol is preferably used in this group. The panthenol ester and ether, pantolactone and also cathionically derived panthenols are in particular panthenol derivatives which can be used. We find, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetates as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
    • Vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
    Vitamin C (ascorbic acid): used in the form of palmitic acid esters, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
    Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol).
    Vitamin F: Vitamin F generally includes essential fatty acids, including linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
    Vitamin H: The compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) 2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4-valeric acid is designated as vitamin H; however, the vernacular name biotin has emerged in the interim.
    Vitamins, provitamins and precursors of vitamins of groups A, B, E and H are particularly preferred. Nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and / or panthenol are very particularly preferred.
    The proportion by weight of the vitamin (s), of the vitamin derivative (s) and / or of the vitamin precursor (s) relative to the total weight of the hair treatment is preferably from 0.001 to 2% by weight , more preferably from 0.005 to 1% by weight and even more preferably from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight.
    The suitable fats, oils and / or waxes which can be used in the hair treatments according to the invention are preferably of mineral, natural and synthetic origin.
    Triglycerides and mixtures of triglycerides are generally used as natural (vegetable) oils. Preferred natural oils are coconut oil, almond oil (sweet), walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, d oil avocado, tea tree oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, watercress oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seeds, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, oil hazelnut, safflower oil, rapeseed oil, camellia sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter and shea butter.
    Mineral oils, paraffin and isoparaffin oils as well as synthetic hydrocarbons are used as mineral oils. The commercially available 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol® S) is for example a hydrocarbon which can be used.
    A dialkyl ether can also serve as an oily component.
    The dialkyl ethers which can be used are di-n-alkyl ethers comprising between 12 and 36 carbon atoms in total, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for example di-n-octyl ether, di ether -n-decyl, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl-n-octyl ether, noctyl-n- ether decyl, n-decyl-n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-undecyl ether as well as di-tert.-butyl ether, diiso ether -pentyl, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert.-butyl-n-octyl ether, isopentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl-n-octyl ether.
    Di-n-octyl ether, commercially available under the name Cetiol® OE, is particularly preferred.
    The silicone compounds are preferably taken into account as synthetic oils.
    The silicones have excellent conditioning properties on the hair. In many cases, they act very positively on the material and the softness of the hair.
    This is why it is interesting to use silicones in cosmetic hair treatments. Suitable silicones can be chosen from:
    at. polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes which are volatile or non-volatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or noncrosslinked;
    b. polysiloxanes which have one or more organofunctional groups in their general structure, chosen from:
    i. substituted or unsubstituted amino groups;
    ii. (per) fluorinated groups;
    iii. thiol groups;
    iv. carboxylate groups;
    v. hydroxyl groups;
    vi. alkoxylated groups;
    vii. acyloxyalkyl groups;
    viii. amphoteric groups;
    ix. bisulfite groups;
    x. hydroxyacylamine groups;
    xi. carboxy groups;
    xii. sulfonic acid groups; and xiii. sulfate and thiosulfate groups;
    at. linear block copolymers of polysiloxane (A) and of polyoxyalkyls (B) of the type (AB) n where n>3;
    b. grafted silicone polymers with non-silicone organic backbone which consists of an organic main chain formed by organic monomers not containing silicones, on which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain as well as at at least one end chain, if applicable;
    vs. silicone polymers grafted with a polysiloxane backbone onto which non-silicone organic monomers have been grafted, which have a main polysiloxane chain, on which at least one organic macromer containing no silicone has been grafted in the chain as well as at least one of its ends, if applicable;
    d. or mixtures thereof.
    By fatty materials is meant fatty alcohols as well as natural and synthetic waxes which can be both in solid form and in liquid form, in an aqueous dispersion.
    Saturated, monounsaturated / polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having C 6 - C 30 - carbon atoms, preferably Ci 0 - C 2 2- and even more preferably Ci 2 - C 22 can be used as fatty alcohols. Decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, alcohol isostearyl, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, caprinic alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their Guerbet alcohols can, for example, be used, the present listing being exemplary and not limiting. However, the fatty alcohols preferably come from natural fatty acids, generally being able to start from the principle of obtaining them by reduction from the esters of fatty acids. The fatty alcohol fractions which can be obtained by reduction of triglycerides of natural origin such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, seed oil cotton, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or from their transesterification products with the corresponding alcohols fatty acid esters which result therefrom, and thus make up a mixture of different fatty alcohols , can be used. These substances can for example be purchased under the names Stenol®, e.g. Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, e.g. Lanette® O or Lorol®, e.g. Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, e.g. Crodacol® CS, Νονοί®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24 Of course, according to the invention, it is also possible to use wool alcohols, for example the products sold under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®.
    Solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswax, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes, such as apple wax or citrus wax, the microcires coming from PE or PP, can be used as natural or synthetic waxes. This type of waxes are for example available from the company Kahl & Co., Trittau.
    As other fats, we can for example cite:
    - Ester oils: by ester oil is meant the esters of C 6 C 30 fatty acids comprising C 2 - C 30 fatty alcohols. Monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexane acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanic acid, myristinic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid, as well as technical mixtures thereof, are for example fatty acid fractions used in esters.
    Isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, caprinic alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidic alcohol, petroselinic alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol, elaéostéarique alcohol, arachidique alcohol, gadoleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, as well as technical mixtures thereof, are for example fatty acid fractions which can be used in oils of ester type. Isopropyl myristate (Rilanit® IPM), C16-18 alkyl ester of isononanoic acid (Cetiol® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft® 24), 2-ethylhexyl ester stearic acid (Cetiol® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerin tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate / caprylate (Cetiol® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit® IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol®), lauric acid hexyl ester (Cetiol® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol® B), myristylic myristate (Cetiol® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol® V).
    - Esters of dicarboxylic acids such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acetate as well as esters diols such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, di-isostearate butanediol, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate.
    - Symmetrical, asymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols.
    - Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC).
    - Monoesters, diesters and triesters of ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated fatty acids of saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids, with linear and / or branched chain comprising glycerin, for example Monomuls® 90-018, Monomuls® 90-L12, Cetiol® HE or Cutina® MD.
    The weight proportion of the components of oil, wax and / or fat relative to the total weight of the hair treatment according to the invention is preferably from 0.01 to 3.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.025 2.50% by weight and even more preferably 0.05 to 2.00% by weight.
    Glycerin can be added separately to the hair treatments according to the invention in a proportion of 10% by weight maximum (relative to the total weight of the product). But it can also be part of the aforementioned hydroalcoholic vehicle.
    In another preferred embodiment, the hair treatments according to the invention contain at least one active substance h) which soothes the scalp and / or at least one active substance i) which treats the scalp, in the form panthenol, allantoin, alpha-bisabolol, a vegetable oil and / or wax, a cationic polymer and / or glycerin.
    In this embodiment, it is particularly preferred when the hair treatments according to the invention contain at least one active substance h) or i), chosen from the group formed by panthenol, allantoin, alpha-bisabolol , polyquatemium-10, apricot kernel oil and / or jojoba oil.
    The other additives, excipients and active substances which may preferably be contained in the hair treatments according to the invention are for example: • plant extracts;
    humectants;
    perfumes; UV filters;
    thickening agents, such as gelatin or vegetable gum, for example agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, gum carob, flax seed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, such as methylcellulose, hydroxylalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives, such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays and phyllosilicates, such as bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids, for example polyvinyl alcohol;
    thickening agents such as acrylic and methacrylic (co) polymers, for example reticular homopolymers of acrylic acid (name INCI: Carbomer), also called carboxyvinyl polymers. Such polyacrylic acids are marketed by the company 3V Sigma under the brand Polygel®, for example Polygel DA, and by the company BF Goodrich under the brand Carbopol®, for example Carbopol 940 (molecular weight of approximately 4,000,000), Carbopol 941 (molecular weight of approximately 1,250,000) or Carbopol 934 (molecular weight of approximately 3,000,000). In addition, the following acrylic acid copolymers are suitable, for example:
    copolymers of two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters, preferably formed with C1-C4 alkanols (designation INCI: Acrylates Copolymer), to which the acid copolymers belong methacrylic, butyl acrylate and methyl methacrylate, and which are marketed by the company Rohm & Haas under the brand Aculyn® and Acusol® as well as by the company Degussa (Goldschmidt) under the brand Tego®, for example Aculyn 22 , Aculyn 28, Aculyn 33 (crosslinked), Acusol 810, Acusol 820, Acusol 823 and Acusol 830;
    crosslinked macromolecular copolymers of acrylic acid to which the crosslinked copolymers belong, comprising an allylic ether of sucrose or pentaerythrite, of C10-C30 alkyl acrylates comprising one or more monomers of the group of acrylic acid, of acid methacrylic and their simple esters, preferably formed with C1-C4 alkanols (INCI designation: Acrylates- (C10-C30) -Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), and which are marketed by the company BF Goodrich under [0130] [0131] [ 0132] [0133] [0134] [0135] the brand Carbopol®, for example Carbopol ETD 2020 and Carbopol 1382 (INCI Acrylates- (C10-C30) -Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) as well as Carbopol Aqua 30;
    • structuring agents such as maleic acid and lactic acid;
    • dyes for coloring the composition;
    • substances making it possible to adjust the pH, for example a- and bhydroxycarboxylic acids, such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, glycolic acid and / or bases such as alkaloamines and / or Γ sodium hydroxide;
    • complexing agents, such as EDTA, NTA, b-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids;
    • ceramides: by ceramides, is meant n-acylsphingosine (fatty acid amides of sphingosine) or synthetic analogues of such lipids (called pseudoceramides);
    • propellants such as a mixture of propane butane, N 2 O, dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air;
    • antioxidants;
    • preservatives such as sodium benzoate or salicylic acid;
    • additional viscosity regulators, such as salts (NaCl).
    A second object of the invention consists in the cosmetic use of a combination of active substances containing
    at. 0.05 to 5.0% by weight of zinc oxide;
    b. 0.05 to 3.00% by weight of at least one anti-dandruff active substance other than a);
    vs. 0.10 to 10.00% by weight of at least one saturated or unsaturated, C 1 -C 24 carboxylic acid, with straight or branched chain; and
    d. 0.01 to 5.00% by weight of at least one amino acid;
    aimed at improving the effectiveness of the anti-dandruff action of the hair treatments, the quantities indicated relating to the total weight of the hair treatment.
    A third subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic process aimed at combating, reducing, relieving and / or preventing dandruff, during which the hair treatment according to the invention is applied to the hair, preferably wet, massaged and then rinsed with water. after having been applied for between 5 seconds and 5 minutes.
    What has been said about the hair treatments according to the invention is applied in accordance with the preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention and of the method according to the invention.
    Examples:
    The following hair treatments according to the invention were manufactured. The quantities indicated in the tables relate to the weight percentage (% by weight):
    [0137] [Tables 1]
    1 2 3 4 Zinc oxide 0.05 - 5.00 0.10 to 4.00 0.25 - 3.00 0.50 - 2.00 Active anti-dandruff substance Ψ ZnO 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.50 0.15 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.50 C 1 -C 2 carboxylic acid 4 0.10 to 10.00 0.50 - 8.00 1.00 to 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 Amino acids 0.01 - 5.00 0.02 - 4.00 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.00 Aqueous or hydroalcoholic vehicle and, where appropriate, other excipients and additives up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 up to 100
    [0138] * saturated or unsaturated, with linear or branched chain [0139] [Tables2]
    5 6 7 8 Zinc oxide 0.05 - 5.00 0.10 to 4.00 0.25 - 3.00 0.50 - 2.00 Piroctone-olamme and / or climbazole 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.50 0.15 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.50 Ci 0 -C 24 carboxylic acid 0.10 to 10.00 0.50 - 8.00 1.00 to 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 Amino acids 0.01 - 5.00 0.02 - 4.00 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.00 Aqueous or hydroalcoholic vehicle and, where appropriate, other excipients and additives up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 up to 100
    [0140] [Tables3]
    9 10 11 12 Zinc oxide 0.05 - 5.00 0.10 to 4.00 0.25 - 3.00 0.50 - 2.00 Active anti-dandruff substance Ψ ZnO 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.50 0.15 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.50 Palmitic acid and / or stearic acid 0.10 to 10.00 0.50 - 8.00 1.00 to 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 Amino acids 0.01 - 5.00 0.02 - 4.00 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.00 Aqueous or hydroalcoholic vehicle and, where appropriate, other excipients and additives up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 up to 100
    [0141] [Tables4]
    13 14 15 16 Zinc oxide 0.05 - 5.00 0.10 to 4.00 0.25 - 3.00 0.50 - 2.00 Active anti-dandruff substance Ψ ZnO 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.50 0.15 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.50 C 1 -C 2 carboxylic acid 4 0.10 to 10.00 0.50 - 8.00 1.00 to 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 Alanine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glycine, proline, serine and / or tyrosine, more particularly glycine 0.01 - 5.00 0.02 - 4.00 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.00 Aqueous or hydroalcoholic vehicle and, where appropriate, other excipients and additives up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 up to 100
    [0142] [Tables 5]
    17 18 19 20 Zinc oxide 0.05 - 5.00 0.10 to 4.00 0.25 - 3.00 0.50 - 2.00 Piroctone-olamine and / or climbazole 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.50 0.15 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.50 Palmitic acid and / or stearic acid 0.10 to 10.00 0.50 - 8.00 1.00 to 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 Alanine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glycine, proline, serine and / or tyrosine 0.01 - 5.00 0.02 - 4.00 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.00 Aqueous or hydroalcoholic vehicle and, where appropriate, other excipients and additives up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 up to 100
    [0143] [Tablesô]
    21 22 23 24 Zinc oxide 0.05 - 5.00 0.10 to 4.00 0.25 - 3.00 0.50 - 2.00 Active anti-dandruff substance Ψ ZnO 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.50 0.15 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.50 C 1 -C 2 carboxylic acid 4 0.10 to 10.00 0.50 - 8.00 1.00 to 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 Amino acids 0.01 - 5.00 0.02 - 4.00 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.00 surfactant 20.00 max. 18.00 max. 16.00 max. 15.00 max. Aqueous or hydroalcoholic vehicle and, where appropriate, other excipients and additives up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 up to 100
    [Tables 144]
    25 26 27 28 Zinc oxide 0.05 - 5.00 0.10 to 4.00 0.25 - 3.00 0.50 - 2.00 Active anti-dandruff substance Ψ ZnO 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.50 0.15 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.50 C 1 -C 2 carboxylic acid 4 0.10 to 10.00 0.50 - 8.00 1.00 to 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 Amino acids 0.01 - 5.00 0.02 - 4.00 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.00 Nonionic surfactant 1.00 to 15.00 2.00 - 14.00 3.00 - 13.00 5.00 to 15.00 Amphoteric surfactant 1.00 to 10.00 1.25 to 8.00 1.50 to 7.50 1.75 to 6.00 Aqueous or hydroalcoholic vehicle and, where appropriate, other excipients and additives up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 up to 100
    [0145] [Tables 8]
    29 30 31 32 Zinc oxide 0.05 - 5.00 0.10 to 4.00 0.25 - 3.00 0.50 - 2.00 Active anti-dandruff substance Ψ ZnO 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.50 0.15 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.50 Ci 0 -C 24 carboxylic acid 0.10 to 10.00 0.50 - 8.00 1.00 to 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 Amino acids 0.01 - 5.00 0.02 - 4.00 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.00 Nonionic surfactant 1.00 to 15.00 2.00 - 14.00 3.00 - 13.00 5.00 to 15.00 Amphoteric surfactant 1.00 to 10.00 1.25 to 8.00 1.50 to 7.50 1.75 to 6.00 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.01 - 2.00 0.02 to 1.50 0.03 - 1.00 0.05 - 0.50 Aqueous or hydroalcoholic vehicle and, where appropriate, other excipients and additives up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 up to 100
    [0146] [Tables9]
    33 34 35 36 Zinc oxide 0.05 - 5.00 0.10 to 4.00 0.25 - 3.00 0.50 - 2.00 Active anti-dandruff substance Ψ ZnO 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.50 0.15 to 2.00 0.20 to 1.50 C 1 -C 2 carboxylic acid 4 0.10 to 10.00 0.50 - 8.00 1.00 to 6.00 1.50 to 5.00 Amino acids 0.01 - 5.00 0.02 - 4.00 0.05 - 3.00 0.10 to 2.00 Nonionic surfactant 1.00 to 15.00 2.00 - 14.00 3.00 - 13.00 5.00 to 15.00 Amphoteric surfactant 1.00 to 10.00 1.25 to 8.00 1.50 to 7.50 1.75 to 6.00 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.01 - 2.00 0.02 to 1.50 0.03 - 1.00 0.05 - 0.50 Cationic polymer 0.01 - 2.00 0.05 - 1.50 0.10 to 1.00 0.15 to 0.75 Aqueous or hydroalcoholic vehicle and, where appropriate, other excipients and additives up to 100 up to 100 up to 100 up to 100
    [0147] [Tables 10]
    37 38 39 40 Zinc oxide 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 Olamine-olamine 0.50 0.50 0.30climbazole 0.50 Palmitic acid 3.50 1.80 1.80Stearic acid1.80 1.80 3.50 wistaria 0.10 0.10 alanine 0.10 0.10 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 10 10 10 10 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.60 1.60 1.60Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate1.20 1.20 2.40 PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Cocamide MEA 0.70 0.70 Polyquaternium-10 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Sodium Benzoate 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 Citric Acid Perfume 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 Water until100 until100 until100 until100 PH value 4.5 - 5.5 4.5-5.5 4.5 - 5.5 4.5 - 5.5
    权利要求:
    Claims (1)
    [1" id="c-fr-0001]
    Hair treatment, containing in a cosmetic vehicle
    a) 0.05 to 5.0% by weight of zinc oxide;
    b) 0.05 to 3.00% by weight of at least one anti-dandruff active substance other than a);
    c) 0.10 to 10.00% by weight of at least one saturated or unsaturated, C 0 -C 2 4 carboxylic acid, with straight or branched chain; and
    d) 0.01 to 5.00% by weight of at least one amino acid;
    the quantities indicated relate to the weight of the hair treatment. Hair treatment according to claim 1, containing, relative to its weight, 0.10 to 4.00% by weight, preferably 0.25 to 3.00% by weight and more preferably 0.50 to 2.00% by weight zinc oxide. Hair treatment according to either of Claims 1 and 2, containing an active substance b) soluble and / or water-soluble in a solution based on surfactants, chosen from the following substances: piroctoneolamine, climbazole, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, sulfur selenium, tar preparations, undecylenic acid derivatives, burdock extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, nut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and / or arnica extracts.
    Hair treatment according to claim 3, containing as active anti-dandruff substance b) piroctone-olamine and / or climbazole, preferably piroctone-olamine.
    Hair treatment according to one of claims 1 to 4, containing, relative to its weight, 0.10 to 2.50% by weight, preferably 0.15 to 2.00% by weight and more preferably 0.20 to 1 , 50% by weight of at least one anti-dandruff active substance b), preferably an anti-dandruff active substance b) soluble in a solution based on surfactants and more preferably piroctone-olamine and / or climbazole.
    Hair treatment according to one of Claims 1 to 5, containing at least one saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid, with a straight or branched chain, comprising a carbon chain which contains 12 to 22, preferably 14 to 20 and more preferably 16 to 18 atoms of carbon, and containing even more preferably palmitic acid and / or stearic acid.
    Hair treatment according to one of claims 1 to 6, containing, by [Claim 8] [Claim 9] [Claim 10] [Claim 11] [Claim 12] [Claim 13] [Claim 14] in relation to its weight, 0, 50 to 8.00% by weight, more preferably 1.00 to 6.00% by weight and even more preferably 1.50 to 5.00% by weight of at least one saturated Ci 0 -C 2 4 carboxylic acid or unsaturated, straight or branched chain, more preferably palmitic acid and / or stearic acid.
    Hair treatment according to one of Claims 1 to 7, containing at least one alanine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glycine, proline, serine and / or tyrosine of non-essential amino acids , preferably a glycine, a proline and / or a serine and more preferably a glycine.
    Hair treatment according to one of Claims 1 to 8, containing, relative to its weight, 0.02 to 4.00% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 3.00% by weight and even more preferably 0.10 at 2.00% by weight of at least one amino acid, preferably alanine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, glutamic acid, glycine, proline, serine and / or tyrosine and more preferably glycine.
    Hair treatment according to one of claims 1 to 9, also containing at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant.
    Hair treatment according to one of claims 1 to 10, also containing hydrogenated castor oil in a weight proportion of 0.01 to 2.00% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair treatment.
    Hair treatment according to one of Claims 1 to 11, also containing at least one cationic polymer.
    Hair treatment according to one of Claims 1 to 12, which preferably takes the form of a hair shampoo and has a pH of between 4.0 and 6.0, preferably between 4.2 and 5.8, more preferably between 4.3 and 5.6 and even more preferably between 4.5 and 5.5. Cosmetic use of a combination of active substances containing
    a) 0.05 to 5.0% by weight of zinc oxide;
    b) 0.05 to 3.00% by weight of at least one anti-dandruff active substance other than a);
    c) 0.10 to 10.00% by weight of at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 24 carboxylic acid; and
    d) 0.01 to 5.00% by weight of at least one amino acid;
    [Claim 15] aimed at improving the effectiveness of the anti-dandruff action of the hair treatments, the amounts indicated relating to the total weight of the hair treatment.
    Cosmetic process for combating, reducing, relieving and / or preventing dandruff, during which a product according to one of points 1 to 13 is applied to the hair, preferably wet, massaged and then rinsed with water after having been laid between 5 seconds and 5 minutes.
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    同族专利:
    公开号 | 公开日
    DE102017223063A1|2019-06-19|
    GB201820364D0|2019-01-30|
    US20190184209A1|2019-06-20|
    GB2571603A|2019-09-04|
    引用文献:
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    DE102006032505A1|2006-07-12|2008-01-17|Henkel Kgaa|Anti dandruff shampoo|
    DE102006037113A1|2006-08-07|2008-02-14|Henkel Kgaa|Means for the control of scalp dandruff|
    JP2013534231A|2010-08-18|2013-09-02|ユニリーバー・ナームローゼ・ベンノートシヤープ|Anti-dandruff shampoo|
    DE102011079540A1|2011-07-21|2013-01-24|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Improved active ingredient combination and hair treatment agent for dandruff I|
    DE102011079539A1|2011-07-21|2013-01-24|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Performance Enhanced Drug Combination and Hair Treatments for Dandruff II|
    DE102014225083A1|2014-12-08|2015-10-08|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Hair treatment agent with anti-dandruff action|
    DE102014225606A1|2014-12-11|2015-10-01|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|Mild, nourishing anti-dandruff shampoo|
    EP3614992B1|2017-04-26|2021-10-13|Unilever Global IP Limited|Antidandruff hair care composition comprising pyrithione|
    CN108379147A|2018-04-04|2018-08-10|南通蛇类治疗研究所|Ferment nutrition hair-washing water|WO2021175499A1|2020-03-06|2021-09-10|Unilever Ip Holdings B.V.|Personal care composition and methods|
    FR3111804A1|2020-06-30|2021-12-31|L'oreal|Process for treating keratin fibers using specific amino acids at high concentration|
    WO2022003039A1|2020-06-30|2022-01-06|L'oreal|Pretreatment composition of a process for dyeing or bleaching keratin fibers|
    FR3111803A1|2020-06-30|2021-12-31|L'oreal|Pre-treatment composition for a dyeing or bleaching process for keratin fibers|
    WO2022003040A1|2020-06-30|2022-01-06|L'oreal|Process for treating keratin fibers using particular amino acids in high concentration|
    DE102020210831A1|2020-08-27|2022-03-03|Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa|"Hair treatment products with anti-dandruff effect"|
    法律状态:
    2019-12-19| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |
    2020-12-23| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |
    2021-11-26| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20211126 |
    2021-12-24| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    DE102017223063.0A|DE102017223063A1|2017-12-18|2017-12-18|Hair treatment agent with anti-dandruff action|
    DE102017223063.0|2017-12-18|
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